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ENTREPRENEURSHIP

Will Kylie Cosmetics Be A Savior Or Sinker For Coty Inc.?

Queried by Beauty Independent, beauty industry experts give Coty Inc.’s $600 million purchase of a 51% stake in Kylie Cosmetics a mixed grade. The deal values Kylie Cosmetics, which will be renamed Kylie Beauty to accommodate category expansion, at $1.2 billion. Some experts point to heavy debt Coty is still digging out of after …
Faye Brookman·November 20, 2019·3 min read
The 30-second read
Queried by Beauty Independent, beauty industry experts give Coty Inc.’s $600 million purchase of a 51% stake in Kylie Cosmetics a mixed grade. The deal values Kylie Cosmetics, which will be renamed Kylie Beauty to accommodate category expansion, at $1.2 billion. Some experts point to heavy debt Coty is still digging out of after buying 41 brands from Procter & Gamble as an obstacle to innovating at Kylie, currently on track to produce $200 million in sales this year with $25 million of the total from the recently launched Kylie Skin.

In addition, there’s concern about how much leverage Kylie Jenner will have to keep the brand relevant in a beauty environment where trends emerge at lightning speed. There’s already fatigue creeping into her domain as evidenced by Rakuten Intelligence’s estimate of a 14% drop in Kylie’s sales for the first five months of the year. Will Coty retain Seed Beauty, the operation with Colourpop and KKW Beauty in its portfolio that’s helped cultivate Kylie’s cool vibe, as the producer or move production in-house for economies of scale? Coty doesn’t have a promising track record of integration. On top of its acquisition blunders with the P&G brands, Coty faltered with its investment in Younique, a direct-sales brand sold back to its founders.

A big elephant in the room is whether Jenner will be transparent about her brand being under corporate control on social media and clue her fans into what might happen to their favorite makeup with the new ownership. Although they mostly may be oblivious to the changes or not care as they drool over holiday goodies or beg for international distribution, something Coty can deliver, a handful have expressed anxiety about the future of Kylie Cosmetics. In a social media comment, one follower wondered, “Why did you sell your brand?”

Quelling the chatter, Coty CFO Pierre-André Terisse succinctly sums up why Coty wanted Kylie or, more specifically, Jenner. “With a single post, she’s able to reach more than double the number of people who watch the Super Bowl every year,” he said in an analyst call. Coty’s hope is that Jenner will lure young consumers who’ve turned away from Coty’s tired stable of CoverGirl, Rimmel and OPI. Coty executives also see dollar signs in international distribution and broadening Kylie across the merchandise spectrum. Are they right? To get at that question, let’s turn back to the dozen beauty industry experts we prodded to provide verdicts on Coty’s latest pickup. We asked them: What do you think of Coty’s acquisition of Kylie Cosmetics, and what are the implications for the broader makeup market?

The players

5 mentioned
Brand

Under Your Skin

Founded2020
HQNew York, NY, USA
Revenue Range$5M–$10M
Funding StatusSeed
Primary CategoryHair
Hero SKUs
Density Shampoo
Density Drops
Dry Shampoo
Brand

AS Beauty

Founded2019
HQNew York, New York, United States
Revenue Range$150M+
Brand

CoverGirl

Investor

Addition

Investor

T Investment

Founded2021