ENTREPRENEURSHIP

The Formulation Process Is Broken If It Takes 40 Tries To Get A Product Right

In an interview last month with Beauty Independent, Oliver Nordlinger, co-founder and partner at Monogram Capital Partners, the private equity owner of manufacturer Prime Matter Labs, pointed out the path from beauty product concept to completion is mired in inefficiencies. He said, “There’s just more back and forth with iterations than …
Rachel Brown·May 29, 2024·2 min read
The 30-second read
In an interview last month with Beauty Independent, Oliver Nordlinger, co-founder and partner at Monogram Capital Partners, the private equity owner of manufacturer Prime Matter Labs, pointed out the path from beauty product concept to completion is mired in inefficiencies. He said, “There’s just more back and forth with iterations than should be the case. I think a really good way to measure how good a formulator is, how many reps does it take to get from initial brief to final approved formulation?”

Nordlinger’s characterization of the formulation process is the behind-the-scenes flip side of a story often told by indie beauty brand founders of their products going through umpteen iterations in development because they’re just so picky about them. The difference between the two got us thinking about what the process should look like under the best-case scenario and what should be done by brands and manufacturers to accomplish that best-case scenario.

So, for this edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked 12 manufacturers the following questions: Ideally, how many iterations should it take for a brand to approve a product? If there are additional iterations, what are common problems leading to them, and how can they be addressed? Do you believe the efficiency of the formulation process could be improved?

The players

5 mentioned
Brand

Prime Matter Labs

HQDumbo Brooklyn, New York
Brand

AS Beauty

Founded2019
HQNew York, New York, United States
Revenue Range$150M+
Brand

Formulate

HQUnited States
Investor

Prime Matter Labs

HQDumbo, Brooklyn, New York
Investor

Monogram Capital Partners

TypePrivate Equity
Portfolio
Highlights
Beach House Group
D.S. & Durga
Foundry
Tru Beauty & Fragrance
Notable Exits
InstaNatural