Ingredient supplier DSM-Firmenich has invested roughly $20 million over nearly 20 years to generate the safety, toxicological and efficacy data required for a U.S. submission. BEMT is already widely used in sunscreens sold globally, including in European versions of sunscreens from brands such as La Roche-Posay, Eucerin, Nivea and Avène.

The U.S. currently permits 16 active sunscreen filters under its OTC monograph, while the European Union allows on the order of 30 and Japan permits a similar number. Larger palettes of filters are often cited as a key reason formulators abroad have had greater flexibility to innovate in sun care. If approved, BEMT could help narrow that innovation gap in the U.S. market.

To explore what this might mean for indie beauty brands, for the latest edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked 12 cosmetic chemists, product developers and beauty entrepreneurs the following: How do you anticipate this new filter will be used? How will it compete in the market? Will consumers switch?