After disappearing from shelves in 2021 following the end of its licensing partnership with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand incubator Kendo, Coty secured the license two years later, sparking years of speculation and yearning about its return. Following his namesake fashion label’s runway show on Feb. 3, Marc Jacobs gave the yearners a sign that the makeup brand’s relaunch is approaching by crediting Marc Jacobs Beauty as the show’s makeup partner.

In line with the wave of nostalgia that’s gripped beauty and fashion, Thomas DeKluyver, the show’s key makeup artist, took a page from the grunge era, when Marc Jacobs epitomized the rebellious gen X youthquake with slip dresses, chunky combat boots and plaid shirts, delivering looks featuring smudged lower-lash eyeliner, pastel eyeshadow, dark lipstick and clean, understated skin, complemented by undone hairstyles accented with oversized scrunchies created by hairstylist Holli Smith.

The show could provide hints at Marc Jacobs Beauty’s new iteration, combining aspects of “clean girl” minimalism with expressive makeup used for effect, from pops of bright blush to washes of color over the eyelids. The concept speaks to editorial makeup rooted in attitude rather than trend cycles.

During its original run, which began in 2013, Marc Jacobs Beauty distinguished itself with fashion-forward products that became cult favorites. Diane Kendal, now the creative director of Rabanne, helped develop the products, and Adwoa Aboah, Kaia Gerber, Winona Ryder and Jessica Lange were among the faces of the brand’s campaigns. Hero products included the Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner, Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara, O!Mega Bronze Perfect Tan Bronzer and Eye-Conic Multi-Finish Eyeshadow Palettes.

While Marc Jacobs Beauty vanished from shelves, Marc Jacobs’ beauty business has continued to be a significant sales engine. Licensed to Coty, its fragrance portfolio generates roughly $250 million annually, according to an estimate in the publication Puck. Fragrances like Daisy and Perfect remain broadly distributed at retailers like Bloomingdale’s, Ulta Beauty, Macy’s, Sephora and Nordstrom.

As Marc Jacobs Beauty moves closer to a color cosmetics rebirth, consumers are debating what the brand’s next chapter should entail. In a recent Reddit discussion, a user with the handle u/glamb97 wrote that the relaunch could occur in the fall and that the formulas are “very very good.” Fans are hungry for the earlier products, though some commenters suggested the formulas may not be identical to them.

One commenter with the handle u/NewWeek3157 gushed, “I’m so emotionally invested in it because it was my first time falling in love with quality makeup products, and I’ve been in love with makeup [ever] since, so it’s very special to me. Had multiple holy grails for me.”

The conversation highlights the challenges facing Marc Jacobs Beauty’s comeback. The brand must evolve within today’s makeup landscape, transformed by TikTok, influencer ascendance and an onslaught of competition, while carrying the weight of its legacy.

For the latest edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked 10 consultants, retailers, founders, content creators and more the following: What should Marc Jacobs Beauty 2.0 be? How can it balance commercial potential with creativity in today’s cutthroat market? How can it be relevant to contemporary consumer demands? Which specific products or categories should it prioritize?