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9 Beauty Brands Launching At Bluemercury

Bluemercury is leveling up with new brands, an elevated store design and expanded fragrance repertoire to boost its prestige beauty market share.  In the fall last year, the Macy's-owned beauty specialty retailer premiered a revamped store design in New Canaan, Conn. with a prominent center bar, updated …
Erica La Sala·May 20, 2024·7 min read
The 30-second read
Bluemercury is leveling up with new brands, an elevated store design and expanded fragrance repertoire to boost its prestige beauty market share.

In the fall last year, the Macy’s-owned beauty specialty retailer premiered a revamped store design in New Canaan, Conn. with a prominent center bar, updated spa treatment rooms and a slew of fresh offerings from the likes SkinMedica, D.S. & Durga, Aesop and Boy Smells. The Cache, Bluemercury’s collection of up-and-coming brands stocked in 23 of its 178 locations nationwide, is featured on the center bar. A second remodeled location featuring the new store design opened its doors in Bronxville, N.Y. in February.

The revamped store design will serve as a prototype for additional and remodeled stores—and additional stores and remodels are being rolled out. Announced as part of Macy’s “Bold New Chapter” initiative earlier this year, the department store chain will shutter 150 poor-performing Macy’s stores and open 30 Bluemercury locations as well as remodel 30 existing stores over the next three years.

Bluemercury has been a bright spot in Macy’s portfolio for twelve consecutive quarters as the department store company’s sales continue to flag. Driven by high demand for skincare and makeup, Bluemercury’s comparable-store sales were up 2.3% in the fourth quarter last year while Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s recorded dips of 6% and 1.5%, respectively. For the full year, Macy’s net sales were down 5.5%, landing at $23.1 billion. Bluemercury registered approximately 711,000 active customers last year, compared to 41.2 million at Macy’s and 4 million at Bloomingdale’s.

Over the past year or so, Bluemercury has introduced in excess of 70 brands. In total, it carries about 210 brands, including bestselling brands Augustinus Bader, Dr. Barbara Sturm, Chantecaille, Diptyque, Dyson, EltaMD, La Mer, Oribe, Trish McEvoy and SkinCeuticals. It’s in-house brands Lune+Aster and M-61 are bestsellers, too.

“Bluemercury’s commitment to curation is core to our DNA and something we approach with tremendous thought and care,” says Tracy Kline, head of merchandising and spa at Bluemercury. “This authenticity is important for both our brand partners as well as our loyal clients. Every brand and product we showcase to our customers has been vetted to ensure it serves a distinct purpose within our portfolio. From the rich heritage brands we recently welcomed such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian and SkinMedica to the many emerging, niche brands featured in The Cache such as Mutha and Dr. Diamond’s Metacine, each brings an inimitable offering to our clients that is differentiated from others in our assortment.”

Below, we turn the spotlight to nine new brands in Bluemercury’s assortment as examples of how the retailer is playing in skincare, fragrance and wellness.

Dr. Diamond’s Metacine made its Bluemercury debut in early May as part of The Cache assortment. Launched in 2022, The Cache picks up three to four niche and emerging brands every four months.

The French luxury fragrance brand launched in 2009 by Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Jean-Paul Gaultier’s internationally bestselling scent Le Mâle and Elie Saab’s Le Parfum, launched in store at Bluemercury as part of its new store format in Bronxville. Over 20 of the brand’s signature scents are in the retailer’s assortment, including the famous Bacarrat Rouge 540 Eau De Parfum, which fetches up to $645 for a 200-ml bottle.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2017 for an undisclosed sum. At the time, the brand was available in almost 500 retailers across 40 countries such as Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harrods and Selfridges. In 2015, its retail sales were pegged at approximately $25 million. Last year, LVMH reported it had “particularly strong momentum” in fragrance and makeup across all regions.

The 260-year-old British-French luxury fragrance brand debuted in five Bluemercury locations, including its new store formats in Bronxville and New Canaan as well as in Dallas, Princeton and Shrewsbury. Its selection at Bluemercury contains 25 of its top-selling scents such as $445 Queen of Silk and $495 Aventus.

Available in over 1,400 points of sale throughout the world, including Macy’s, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus, Creed was acquired by Kering last year in a $3.8 billion all-cash transaction that would see the luxury fashion conglomerate push further into beauty as sales of its mainstay designer brands weaken. At the time of its acquisition, Creed had recorded sales of over 250 million euros or approximately $271 million.

Inspired by the opulence of 18th century France, luxury fragrance brand Parfums de Marly will bow in three Bluemercury locations in late June, including the Promenade at Sagemore in Marlton, N.J., Chesterbrook Shopping Center in McLean, Va., and Dallas. Established in 2009 under parent company Sprecher Berrier Group of Companies, Parfums de Marly is sold in approximately 1,200 retailers around the world and its own branded stores in Paris, London and Dubai.

In 2023, the brand was acquired by private equity fund Advent International in a deal that included its sister fragrance brand Initio Parfums Privés. The transaction was rumored to be valued at more than $700 million, although terms weren’t disclosed. In 2022, Parfums de Marly’s sales jumped by over 50% to 262 million euros or approximately $284 million.

Plant-powered skincare brand Clark’s Botanicals landed in The Cache assortment in early February. Six products from the brand’s assortment are available at the retailer, including $25 Ultra Rich Lip Balm,$150 Retinol Rescue Overnight Cream, $80 7-Acid Daily Glow Peel and $50 Heal and Hydrate B3 Cleanser.

Launched in 2010 by founder Francesco Clark, Clark’s Botanicals was scooped up six years later along with makeup brand Laura Geller and nail brand Julep by the Warburg Pincus-backed beauty holding company Glanasol. The acquisition deal was valued at $120 million for the three brands. Clark bought back the company after Glanasol dissolved in 2019. The same year, it was projected to reach at least $5 million in revenues. In addition to Bluemercury, Clark’s Botanicals is sold at Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Goop.

Supplement wellness brand Biocol Labs offers capsules, liquids and sprays that aid with digestion, immunity, metabolism and hangovers. The family-owned brand entered Bluemercury’s The Cache assortment in February.

Designed to improve the results and recovery time from injectables, luxury skincare brand Viktor Michael debuted in 2023 with two products: $157 serum Hidden Agenda and $112 mask Ciao For Now. The brand’s co-founders, Nadya Kozlova and Shay Sim, operate the three-unit med-spa chain Kucumber Skin Lounge in Washington state.

A graduate of Bridge Mentorship, a program for emerging brands from Beauty Independent and early-stage stage beauty and wellness investment firm True Beauty Ventures, Viktor Michael got off the ground with the help of a $500,000 investment from Kozlova and Sim. It was projected to notch $1 million in sales last year. By 2026, the brand aims to surpass $25 million in sales.

Launched in Portugal in the late 1970s by husband and wife Gualdim and Natalia Redol, Biocol Labs is offering five of its plant-based supplements at Bluemercury, including digestion, metabolism and immunity aids as well as supplements for hangovers and cleanses. Its products at the retailer are all priced at under $30.

Biocol Labs is family-owned and -operated and has distribution in more than 20 countries. Revolve, Safe & Chic and C.O. Bigelow are a few of its other retailers in the United States.

Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Jason Diamond’s eponymous skincare brand broke into The Cache in early May. The brand’s two-step InstaFacial Plasma and Emulsion products retailing for $200 and $350, respectively, leverage skin-identical molecules to repair and rejuvenate the skin.

The self-funded brand hit retail last year when it made its online debuts at Moda Operandi and Goop. It will accelerate its brick-and-mortar presence later this year when it lands in 10 Nordstrom stores in September.

Seven products from luxury skincare brand Mutha are now available at Bluemercury, including its bestselling Body Butter, No. 1 Serum and Up All Night Eye Cream.

The British intimate care brand continues its U.S. retail expansion with its entrance into Bluemercury. The prestige specialty retailer carries two of the brand’s top-selling products: $22 Tame It! Vegan In-Shower Hair Removal Cream and $11 Saddle Sore Soothing Balm. WooWoo’s full assortment spans at-home wax strips, intimate washes, wipes, moisturizers, lubricants, condoms and more. Most of its products are priced under $15.

Launched in 2016, WooWoo initially crossed the pond five years later after raising $1 million in funding. It’s since struck partnerships with the likes of Free People and Anthropologie.

Launched as a skincare line for expectant mothers in 2019, Mutha has grown to have a full line of facial and body care products that encompasses cleansers, oils, serums, body bars, scrubs and deodorants. At Bluemercury, its merchandise presentation has seven products, including $140 No.1 Serum, $90 Up All Night Serum and $95 Body Butter. Mutha is also sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Violet Grey, Cos Bar and Cult Beauty.

The players

5 mentioned
Brand

Augustinus Bader

Founded2017
HQNew York City, New York, United States
Revenue Range$130M–$140M
Brand

The Center

Brand

Cos Bar

Founded2004
Brand

Diptyque

Brand

AS Beauty

Founded2019
HQNew York, New York, United States
Revenue Range$150M+